Woman's Head Shawl (Mendil)

mid-20th century

African Art

Not on view

This elaborate woolen head shawl is a type worn for weddings. The lower part is decorated in the plangi tie-dye technique, in which the circle motif is created by binding a seed into the textile before dying. Berber women wove and dyed the textiles themselves and then commissioned the colorful embroidery from female or male specialists (possibly of Jewish origin) in urban centers. North African woolen weaves were very much sought after in West Africa, and Portuguese merchants traded along the coast for local produce in the sixteenth century. Prior to the establishment of coastal trade, woolen textiles from the northern part of the continent likely would have been brought south on trans-Saharan caravan routes. Comparable embroidery styles have also been found along the southern fringe of the Sahara.

Medium

Wool, cotton, natural dyes, silk, and rayon or synthetic yarn

Dimensions

40 × 29 in. (101.6 × 73.66 cm)

Credit Line

Leonard C. Hanna, Jr., Class of 1913, Fund

Accession Number

2016.86.5

Culture
Period

20th century

Classification
Disclaimer

Note: This electronic record was created from historic documentation that does not necessarily reflect the Yale University Art Gallery’s complete or current knowledge about the object. Review and updating of records is ongoing.

Provenance

Provenance

Purchased by Renate Anna Menzel (menzel Galerie Nordafrika), Austria, from an antiques dealer in Tunis
Yale University Art Gallery purchased from Renate Anna Menzel (menzel Galerie Nordafrika) in 2016
Bibliography
  • Cynthia Becker, "Amazigh Woven Textiles at Yale: Visual Expressions of Berber Women's Creativity and Inventiveness," in "Recent Acquisitions," special issue, Yale University Art Gallery Bulletin (2017), 34, fig. 1
  • "Acquisitions July 1, 2015–June 30, 2016," Yale University Art Gallery Bulletin: Online Supplement (accessed December 1, 2016), 4
Object copyright
Additional information

Object/Work type

shawls, textile materials

Subject

women

Technical metadata and APIs

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