Album of Japanese Fabric Samples Maker: Unknown

18th–19th century

Asian Art

This album is composed of fifty-five sample fabrics mounted on thirty-six pages and includes fragments from Buddhist priest shawls, Noh robes, and garments worn by upper-class women at court and in samurai households. Each sample is accompanied by a strip of washi paper, on which is written a rough identification and date. Albums containing samples of calligraphic writing taken from literary anthologies and poems were already popular in early Japanese history and existed mainly for instructional purposes; by the late eighteenth century, fabrics were similarly collected and recorded in albums. One of the earliest such albums, known as the Manual of Chintz Design (Sarasa Benran, published in 1784), featured imported textiles from India and the Islamic world, attesting to the long-standing Japanese fascination with a range of luxury textiles.



23
赤地金焼綿牡丹ニ孔雀 天保時代 寺院僧侶用
Peony and peacock on silk brocade with a red background and burnished gold foil; Tenpō era (1830–44); for temples and Buddhist priests


24
白地金焼錦松(?)鳳 文政 袈裟
Phoenix on silk brocade with a white background and burnished gold foil; Bunsei era (1818–30); Buddhist priest shawl (kesa)


25
紺地キンラン瓢箪模様 弐百年 女帯及表装用
Pattern of gold silk brocade gourds on navy blue silk; 200 years old; for a woman’s sash and a scroll mount


26
赤地キンラン蓮模様 天保時代 袈裟ノ四角ニ使用スル裂
Pattern of gold silk brocade lotuses on a red ground; Tenpō era (1830–44); fragment used for the four squares (shiten) of a Buddhist priest shawl (kesa)


27
宝侭刺繍 元禄時代 大名女物衣裳ノ裂
Embroidery design full of treasures; Genroku era (1688–1704); fragment from women’s clothes [worn] at a daimyo’s household


28
白茶色金襴筒井裂 百五十年 女帯及袈裟
Fragment of sand-beige ground with a pattern of tsutsui (a well-mouth design), with gold silk brocade dragons inside a flower shape; 150 years old; for a woman’s sash and a Buddhist priest shawl (kesa)


29
紺地キンラン蜀甲形 化政時代 寺院僧侶用
Navy blue silk with gold brocade shokkō pattern (combined squares and octagons); Bunka (1804–18) and Bunsei eras (1818–30); for temples and Buddhist priests


30
モヤ地*絽地箔摺 徳川中期 勾ヒ嚢即チ丁子入レ 別製ノキレ之
Mist pattern (moyaji?); silk gauze (ro) with impressed foil; mid-Tokugawa (Edo) period; namely [it is a] fragrance pouch containing cloves; made of another cloth inside


40
(?)地縮緬地御殿模様 徳川中期時代 御殿女中打掛ノ切レハシ
Silk crepe cloth (chirimen) with the pattern of a palace scene (here partial maple leaves over water); mid-Tokugawa (Edo) period; fragment from a robe of a palace maidservant


44
鹿ノ甲絞リ 俗ニ疋田トモ称ス リンズ地ナリ 化政 民間婚礼衣装
Tie-dyed cloth with a dappled pattern (kanoko shibori), casually called hitta, on figured satin (rinzu) ground; Bunka (1804–18) and Bunsei eras (1818–30); used at a wedding ceremony among commoners


45
絽挿シ(?) 此品ハ大抵素人ガ楽ミニ製スル物多シ 約百年 懐中持嚢物類
Woven silk gauze (ro?); this type of cloth is mostly made by amateurs for fun; approximately 100 years old; used for a portable accessory pouch

Medium

Ink and color on paper

Dimensions

9 13/16 × 12 13/16 × 6 3/4 in. (25 × 32.5 × 17.2 cm)

Credit Line

Hobart and Edward Small Moore Memorial Collection, Gift of Mrs. William H. Moore

Accession Number

1951.51.75

Geography
Culture
Period

Edo period (1615–1868), Meiji era (1868–1912)

Classification
Disclaimer

Note: This electronic record was created from historic documentation that does not necessarily reflect the Yale University Art Gallery’s complete or current knowledge about the object. Review and updating of records is ongoing.

Provenance

Provenance

Asia Institute, New York; Mrs. William H. Moore (Ada Small Moore) (1858–1955) New York; gift in 1951 to the Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven, Conn.
Object copyright

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